Their primary role is to soften the transition from the wall to the ceiling with a distinctive flair. A well-chosen crown moulding can help communicate an overall design preferences without saying a word.
Below is a guide for choosing crown moulding for every room in the house. Does crown moulding have to be white? Not at all. Painting crown moulding white is definitely on-trend and is most common.
However, depending on the material used to manufacture the moulding, it could be painted or stained. Crown moulding is often painted white to match the ceiling.
This is an effective way to add the illusion of height. A crown moulding painted in a different color from the ceiling can bring a unique and decorative pop to the room, but if the ceilings are low, it will also highlight this relative smallness. For low ceilings, paint it white to gain that impression of extra inches. Choosing a monochromatic color palette from your baseboards to crown moulding, and everything in between like casing, chair rail and panel moulding, can add texture and dimension to a space.
It also allows the trim to take a back seat and the decor to take center stage. Does my crown moulding have to match my baseboards? Not necessarily, but you want to keep it in roughly the same visual family. Moulding is about creating a consistent appearance from floor to ceiling, room to room, so you may not want to mix and match a classic Victorian or Colonial profile for your baseboard with a sharply angled Craftsman crown moulding.
Choose similar profiles to create visual harmony from top to bottom. As an example, in the room above, the designer has selected a baseboard from the Fashion Forward Collection. This is a chic, transitional profile, while the crown moulding selected, from the Very Square Collection , is a relatively simple, contemporary profile. But if a room has out-of-square or curved walls, or if the molding is made of heavy plaster or built-up wood profiles, hire a pro. Measure the perimeter of the room, then add 10 to 15 percent for waste; for rooms with lots of corners, add 20 percent.
Lightweight and relatively flexible, this DIY-friendly material comes in 8- to foot lengths and is installed with finishing nails. Because it's made to order in 6-foot lengths, each hand-cast piece can be richly ornamented with crisp detail.
Plaster is heavy and rigid, and usually requires a pro to install it using screws and construction adhesive. Joints are filled with plaster, then the surface must be painted. The 8-foot lengths of extruded polystyrene are topped with fiberglass and a thin coat of acrylic plaster. It's light and flexible as wood, as seamless as solid plaster, and DIY-friendly; joint compound holds it in place and fills seams.
Like plaster, it has to be painted. Cast in 8- and foot lengths, it looks like plaster but is lightweight and doesn't require professional installation.
Construction adhesive holds it in place; joints are filled with caulk. Cast in 8- to foot lengths, it cuts like wood but is much heavier. Can fit a radius as small as 24 inches. Construction adhesive and finishing nails hold it in place. Choose a painted or stained-wood-look finish. Consider the room's purpose. Traditionally, crown was incorporated into impressive cornices in public rooms, such as entry foyers, dining rooms, and parlors.
The size would remain consistent from one first-floor entertaining space to the next. By contrast, smaller, less elaborate crown was generally used for private spaces—a powder room or bedroom.
Play off the existing trim. Look to your baseboards and door and window casing to determine the right scale. An appropriately sized cornice is either the same height as, or slightly smaller than, the baseboard.
Measure the ceiling height. Ceiling height is the ultimate arbiter of size, according to architect Richard Sammons, coauthor of Get Your House Right. In the tradition of ancient Greek and Roman crown, this molding has both acanthus leaves and egg-and-dart detailing.
In place of the typical cove, there's a bead beneath the elongated S curve. This crown is solid, making it a good choice in locations that don't touch the ceiling, such as cabinets and casings. Delicate acanthus leaves are commonly seen on trim used in Classical Revival—style homes.
This flexible, paint-grade polyurethane crown is topped with a large bulbous curve, called an ovolo, that creates a clean shadow line.
Overlaid strips of solid stock form a crown that would complement s Art Deco or even contemporary interiors. A scene-stealing frieze with a flowering vine motif tucks neatly beneath a rippled crown. This ancient crown profile is simply a graceful S curve set above a concave-shaped cove. To get intricate details like ropes or beads in a wood crown, these components are often machined separately and then inserted into a groove cut into the crown.
This impressive one-piece cornice has a meandering Greek key design of interlocking geometric shapes. A dough-like mixture of sawdust and resin forms the decorative beading and the "lamb's tongue" motif on this paint-grade crown.
The earliest crown was planed by hand from the New World's plentiful supply of wood. Simple profiles predominated, owing to the high cost of adding complicated carved details.
The use of crown waned in the s, but simple strips are a handsome upgrade to more modern ranches and split-levels, as long as they are in proportion to the ceiling height. In the late 19th century, Americans favored crown that was big, bold, and often encrusted with classical details, such as dentils and acanthus leaves.
Ready-made ceiling crown molding is constructed of wood, medium-density fiberboard, or MDF, and polyurethane. Custom ceiling crown moldings are also made with plaster. The decorative edging is available in several different profile styles. The profile describes the look of the molding when viewed from the side. Profiles vary from simple geometric lines to highly ornate carvings.
An intricately carved, ornate molding will work well in a large traditional room. Install a clean molding with a flat profile in a Craftsman home.
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